Chikan
The word Chikan derives its name from the Persian word, Chakeen, meaning rendering of delicate patterns on fabric. The Chikan work of Lucknow is perhaps one of the most popular embroidery works in India. It has a certain grace and elegance, which ensures that it never goes out of style. The ‘chikankari’ is believed to be introduced in the seventeenth century by Noorjehan (the beautiful wife of Mughal emperor Jehangir). Some designs and patterns still exist that are believed to be queen's personal creations.
Chikan embroidery is a very laborious and time-consuming task (The craftsmen are trained for 15 to 20 years and sometimes it takes 10 to 15 days to make an outfit with hand embroidery as they fill in the designs with threads with detail work. The stitches used include double back stitch and pulled work, as well as running and back stitch. The intricacy and the patterns remind you of the fine marble carvings and jalis. (lattice) seen in the ancient architecture of India, such as Taj Mahal
Zardozi
Zardozi is an ancient Persian art (Zar in Persian means gold and Dozi is embroidery) which has been passed down for many generations in INDIA, dating back before the Mughal empire, reaching its zenith under the patronage of Emperor Akbar in the 17th century.
The traditional method of preparing gold wires for embroidery was a complicated one. A pure silver bar, generally one and a half feet long, was covered thrice with gold it was then put into a furnace and heated till the gold and silver diffused and the entire surface of the bar became coated with gold. Then the gilded bar was forced through successively smaller holes until the required dimensions were obtained. Zari embroidery is done with a crochet hook using the metallic thread and appears like chain stitch. With one hand the craftsman holds a retaining thread below the fabric in the other he holds a hook or a needle with which he picks up the appliqué materials. Then the needle is passed through the fabric and after days of painstaking labor, the result is an exquisite gold-veined work of art
Mirror Embroidery
One of the most attractive embroidery style available include the mirror along with the other stitches to enhance the general effect of the pattern. It is said to have originated about 13th century the finest embroidery was brought to northern Kutch by the Jats of the Banni who had immigrated from Baluchistan generations ago. Movement of pastoral nomads and their settlement in different parts, gave wide variation to the embroidery styles. Mirror discs are cut in the shape of circle, petals and leaves, and blended in designs of shimmering delicacy.
In Rajasthan, the originally weavers, used a combination of cross stitch, satin stitch and buttonhole stitch, along with mirrors to signified the wearer as single, married or widowed
Banjara Embroidery
The word Banjara means Gypsy and refers loosely to a group of nomadic people of North Indian origin. Over the course of the last few centuries, the Banjara have spread throughout Central and South India. Banjara embroidery (fine needlework) is created by the women of the tribe for traditional, ceremonial and practical uses using a variety of techniques. Similar to other textile societies like the Balouch and other Central Asian tribes, most everyday objects were woven or embroidered by the tribes people themselves with materials and dyes gathered from their herds of livestock and the plants and trees growing in the regions through which they migrated
Tapestries are decorated with cowry shells, cotton and woolen tassels, coins, buttons, lead and glass beads and mirrors. This is often seen on other nomadic textiles as well. The purpose is to reflect the evil eye and make noise to frighten off evil spirits. These attachments also serve as storage of wealth and a demarcation of tribal affiliation or identities
Kashmiri Embroidery
Kashmiri embroidery or kashida is colorful and beautiful as Kashmir itself. Kashmiri work has a rich color spectrum and exquisite workmanship, with beautifully composed designs depicting common local symbols like the chinar leaf, the grape, the cherry, plum, apple blossom, lily, the various flowers of the region. Kashmiri embroidery is known for the skilled execution of a single stitch. Chain stitch, satin stitch, the slanted darn stitch, stem, herringbone and sometimes the doori or knot stitches are used but not more than one or two at a time.
Sozni embroidery or dorukha is often done so skillfully that the motif appears on both sides of the shawl each side having a different color. There is no wrong side - the same design is produced in different colors on both sides. Kashmir is also famous globally for the Cashmere (Pashmina) shawls, it comes from a special goat (Capra hircus) living at above 14,500 ft and reared by nomad shepherds
Kantha Embroidery
Derived from the word 'Kontha' in Sanskrit it basically means rags. Although it is a simple running stitch, it is the way the stitch has been used that makes it extra ordinary. Originally it was used to join layers of old saris, to make quilts.
It can rightly be called the recycling art - the precious silks and muslins when became worn-out, women instead of throwing them away, piled them in layers and stitched. Another legend relates Kantha origin to lord Buddha and his disciples. It is said that they used to cover themselves with the thrown away rags patched and stitched together. The oldest reference to Kantha is in Sri Sri Chaitanya Charitamrita" by Krishnadas Kaviraj Which was written some 500 years back. Kantha was said to be a lady's self-expression. There are seven different types of Kantha work based on how it is made and the end use
Kasuti
A type of embroidery from the state of Karnataka. The origins of this embroidery go back to the Chalukya period that is 6th to 10th century - a period when many arts flourished. The designs are mainly derived from the temple sculptures and usually depict chariots, birds, animals, bells, etc. The patterns are usually never drawn before and are recreated directly on the fabric with needle and thread
Brighter colors have been used traditionally such as shades of red, orange yellow and purple. The stitches involved are running stitch and cross. The patterns are created in such a way that both the sides of the cloth have similar appearance.
Aari Bharat Embroidery
The word 'Aaari comes from the hooked needle used in the embroidery called the aar. It is quiet similar to the one used in crochet. The fabric is first stretched over a frame and a pattern is traced on it and the embroidery work begins. A needle with a hooked end and Zari (gold or silver) or cotton or silk thread is used. The needle is pushed through the fabric and from behind, thread is pushed into the hook - when the needle is pulled up again, it comes up with a loop. The same process is repeated and the resulting stitches are very fine and small. The designs are of mainly of Mughal origin since the art was at one time patronized by them and once the embroidery part is over the stitches are beaten using a wooden mallet from the top on a handheld wooden anvil placed under the fabric
Banni Embroidery
This style of embroidery comes from the Banni area in Kutch ( Gujrat) and is famous for bright yellow, red and saffron colours and mirror work with beads. This embroidery is known for its intricacy and richness and is typically done using the silk floss and the mirrors are studded using buttonhole and chain stitch.
